We were very boring during the long time off for Chinese New Year, but to make up for it we made sure to see the 15 day celebrations off at their big final event, the Lantern Festival. It falls on the first full moon of the lunar new year, and this year the official celebration was set up in Yunlin and was the biggest one so far.
The Lantern Festival has a long history, and in Taiwan it’s still very possible to do the very traditional style, where red paper lanterns, often with wishes written on them, are released on masse into the night sky. The most popular spot to see this is in Pingxi. The official festival, however, is a more modern take more akin to an incredible light display, concert, and fair. A huge space around Yunlin’s High Speed Rail station was set aside to show off a fantastic display of lights and symbolic lanterns, tying the new LED-fuelled spectacle to the tradition of releasing sky lanterns.
Getting to the festival was a challenge. The traffic going into the festival was insane, with taxis, cars, and buses all flooding in from all directions. The shuttle buses did have some stretches of dedicated roads, and we regretted not trying to get on one at the local train station instead of going by taxi. To save time and money, we hopped out not far from the festival entrance and walked alongside the road. Many other festivalgoers had the same idea, and the excitement built as the bright lights grew distinct and morphed into signs for the festival. Every island down the middle of the road was decorated, with trees wrapped in LED lights pointing the way. Eventually we passed the full-to-bursting parking lots and under a red gateway of lights into the bustle of the festival.
On every side there was something to see. At the entrance there was a stage celebrating Taiwan’s indigenous aboriginal cultures, including singing and dancing, and lanterns in the shape of people in the traditional dresses of each group. From there, we wandered amid ever more complex displays of light and art. We passed beneath a giant illuminated pirate ship, and saw moving animatronic dragons and vikings (definitely not loosely based on a popular Dreamworks movie), animals, and abstract shapes.
These lanterns were all made from a kind of polygonal framework supporting coloured fabric that would be placed over bright lights. Each then would glow from the inside, and the lantern-sculptures could be impressively complex, some even articulated to move. There were even whole temples to many different gods, as well as a number of impressive and fully-lit Buddhist temples and even a small Christian church complete with light-up saints. Alongside these displays were large stages where smaller performances were held. Each time we thought we were drawing near to the main event stage, it turned out to be yet another, bigger ‘small’ stage!
Naturally as it is the year of the rooster, the festival’s theme drew on roosters, other birds, and especially the mythical Fenghuang (or Chinese phoenix) as a motif that was visible all around. The centerpiece of the festival was an enormous phoenix, standing high above the main stage (something that helped us to finally find it!). Every 30 minutes, the performance onstage would subside so that the massive lantern blast a psychedelic light-show from within, set to dramatic music as the phoenix rotated and flashed a million different colours. It was amazing, and we were right below it when the display began! The other major attraction was an immense pavilion made entirely of paper lanterns stretching way into the air. These two displays really captured the blend of traditional and ultramodern that the Festival was trying to achieve.
Of course, the festival also boasted a night market – this is Taiwan of course! The food section was really crowded, as we’d expected, but we still managed to get some fantastic Indian food from some exchange students making money selling delicious samoosas and Indian tea. Finding somewhere to sit was a challenge, as the press of people spilled out into the eating areas as well. We eventually found a street-side stone bench to sit on and quickly eat our food.
What we didn’t account for was the really long lines for getting back on the shuttle buses out from the festival. When we got to the bus area, the lines were already snaking back and forth and around and back again, with no real guidance as to which line was to get onto which bus going where. After trying to find the right queue and failing twice, we eventually squeezed our way to the front of the queues and then followed the right one back to its end, which happened to be at the centre of the world’s slowest whirlpool of people.
Needless to say, the wait that we would have had was going to make us miss the last train back to Changhua. Thank goodness for the HSR station being just a minute away from the buses. Not long after we got our tickets and were waiting for the next ultra-fast train to race us home, loads of other people had the same idea and the train filled up quickly as well! Nonetheless we were comfortable and back home in not too long at all!
The Festival was a wonderful event, and it was interesting to find out about the ways in which the city managed to Green up such an electicity-heavy event with school children riding bicycles to generate electricity in the days leading up to it as only one innovate example. We had a blast seeing all the amazing lanterns and displays, and we would really recommend trying to see the Festival next year!